L'ensemble de fils

It's the hidden stiffening layer inside collars, cuffs and waistbands — the difference between 'handmade' and 'homemade'. What it is, when you need it, and the one weight rule that prevents cardboard collars.

Rethread everything, fresh needle, better thread — in that order. The four fixes behind almost every thread tantrum, and why loops underneath mean the problem is on top.

No — and don't let a machine you don't own stop you starting. Zigzag stitch, pinking shears, or simply sewing knits: three free answers to the fraying question, plus when an overlocker genuinely earns its price.

Cotton poplin — that's the answer. Here's why, which other fabrics are kind to beginners, and which lovely-but-difficult fabrics to save for later (so you don't wrongly decide you "can't sew").