Which Thread Should I Use? The Simple Guide

Here's the quick answer: for almost everything you sew, use a good all-purpose polyester thread — like Gütermann Sew-All. It works on cotton, on stretch fabric, on nearly every project. If you only remember one thing from this page, remember that.

Why polyester is the safe answer

Polyester thread has a little give in it. Fabric moves when it's worn — especially stretch fabric — and thread with a little give moves with it instead of snapping. It's also strong, doesn't shrink in the wash, and behaves in the machine. That's why one brand of all-purpose polyester is the only thread most sewers ever need.

When cotton thread makes sense

Cotton thread is lovely for sewing cotton fabric — quilting, patchwork and heirloom projects where everything is natural fibre and nothing stretches. The one rule: never use cotton thread on stretchy fabric. Cotton has no give, so the first big stretch pops the seam. (Some guides get this backwards — it matters, so we're saying it clearly.)

The special-occasion threads

Topstitch thread is thicker and bolder — for jeans-style stitching that's meant to be seen. Embroidery thread is shinier — for decoration, not for holding seams together. You'll know when a project asks for them; until then, you don't need them.

Two tips from behind the counter

Colour: when there's no exact match, pick the shade one step darker than your fabric — it disappears into the seam better than a lighter one.

Old thread: that spool inherited from a grandmother's sewing box? Keep it for the memories, not the seams — thread weakens with age and snaps mid-project.

Our thread wall is built around Gütermann Sew-All in the shades that match our fabrics — and thread adds nothing to postage, so it's the classic add-on to a fabric order.