Lingerie 101- Series 2: The Chloe Thong
Carol Walker
This week pattern will be looking at the Chloe Thong from EvieLaLuve.Com and is one of my firm favourites for both simplicity and elegance. The pattern is well written and simple to achieve - and the stapy version is one that remains one of my delicious and effective date night panties.
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I think I must be a weird shape. I am 170cm (5'7), I have crazy long legs and a long torso. My love affair started with the Chloe thong because its long enough in the body to prevent it cutting me completely in half and is a really great way of using up the last little bits of your fabric. Quick point here, for those of you who prefer a larger pant, (.... and they are a must for one of my 12 hours shifts at work, there will be plenty of patterns later in this series to ensure your inspiration)
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Evie la Luve's patterns are all PDF's and being a tiny bit of a technophobe I was a little reluctant - but I am now a complete and utter convert. Don't forget to read the pattern sizing information first, it is a British company and follows the UK Sizing. Hannah, who created Evie la Luve has very helpfully given really clear printing instructions and has literally made the process so straight forward.
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So, find the right size for you, remember not the version of you that you want to be, the real version and print it out (This is about making real lingerie for real women, and not the Victorias Secret model version that is everwhere in the media.)
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The pattern pieces are all tiny so no need to spend hours cutting and sticking pages together. The next thing to do is to plan your make. I literally love this part - I like to make sure I am happy with my plans and how it looks and it allows me to visually check I have ordered everything I need. So after you have made your sketch, ordered your shopping list and waited for it to arrive you are ready to finally cutinto your beautiful new fabric.
"Sewing is about pleasure. These tiny pattern weights were a present from my mum in lock down. She made some for herself which were bigger and when I feel in love with them, she made some super tiny ones for my lingerie making.".
Using your pattern weights, place the pattern pieces on the material, paying attention to the direction of greatest stretch DOGS (marked by the arrow) and cut out all your pieces. The DOGS is important in lingerie making, you need the fabric to move as you breath, so a general rule is that the 'DOGS' runs around the body in a circumfrancial way. If your pattern has a power bar it will run upwards over the bust, but we dont have to worry about this with our bottoms. Once it is all cut out you should have three pieces, the front, back and the crotch lining, and this will generally be the case for any knicker pattern.
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The next part is one of may favourite. If you are wanting to add a lace overlay now is the time. Plan carefully though, because you need your lace to be completely symetrical. Do the same for any lace you want on the front and on the back. I find it helps to lay the lace over the pantie piece to help you align the lace in the most effecive way, and is another really good way to use up many left over scraps.
Then you are ready to start tacking on the lace. I usually use big ugly stitches in a crazy colour to help me see, then all you need to do is sew on the lace with a zigzag stitch to keep it secure. (A small shortcut here is that I only sew on where the lace is going across the body of the pant, never in the side seams or leg opening sections as the tacking thread means it all stays secure and besides, you are going to add elastic over the top and then remove the tacking threads)
Then you are ready to add in the crotch lining. This is by far easier in a video so follow the link below to walk the through the process. There are two types of crotch lining, this one, which is a single sewn edge, and a concealed seam crotch which we will look at when we make our next type of pantie in a few weeks.
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"Now your Chloe Thong really does start to take shape".With the right sides together, pin and sew both of the side seams together. This can be done any way you like. I use a variety of methods; if the fabric is thin and elegant, or an all over lace, I usually sew it with a French Seam, but for these viscose jersey everyday pants I wizz it through the over locker. It isn't completely necessary, you could also just use a zigzag stitch to seal the ends and run a basic sewing line to make the seams look neat...Turn them right sides out and you will see your pantie taking shape...The next part is to decide on the leg finishes. There two methods - you can use a narrow decorative pico edge or a more simple but slightly more modern foldover elastic. At this point I also like to trim down all the leg openings, so any lace or crotch linings which are over hanging, can be trimmed to neaten...I love to add foldover elastic to the leg openings so I will show you how to do that in this section, but if you want to add pico or decorative edges we will add it to future patterns so you can see the technique...Run the foldover elastic all the way around the leg opening from the side seams and all the way back, then the pattern calls for taking away 5cm from the length, but I like a looser leg so I only take away 4cms and cut two lengths the same (one for each leg opening) and sew together..It is also important to remember that some of the foldover elastics have a shiny side and a matt side. It really doesnt matter which you use it is purely a matter of choice, but just be careful to add the same to each leg. (Trust me, it is crazy frustrating if you get this part wrong!!) Sew each piece of foldover leg elastic together, to create two loops..Next, divide each in half and then into quarters and mark each with a pin, and do the same for each leg opening. (It doesnt have to be completely super precise it is more about stretching the elastic evenly. With the right side of the pantie and lace facing out, put the foldover elastic under your machine and the the place the right side of the fabric up, onto. Then run a line of small zigzag stitches all the way around the leg opening, and trim back any excess fabric which passes the halfway point of your elastic. (Or it won’t foldover nearly)..Then for your second pass set your machine onto a narrow stitch length three step zigzag. I use a stitch length of 2 and as wide a zigzag as my basic machine has. (My machine isnt anything fancy, it was a basic second hand machine from the 80's, and I love it - its my workhorse!) Now repeat this process for the second leg and you will see something beautiful..
.Now for the waist band, which is treated exactly the same..Lay the pantie down face up on your sewing table hand measure the fold over elastic around the top. Take off 4 cms so you can have some stretch. Again here I dont like a tight pant so you will get the feel for what works for you. (A good tip here is that I alway keep a record of how any cms I use, so if they are too tight or too loose I can simply add or takeof a couple next time!) Next mark all the elastics and waist opening with half and quarter mark pins - again so you can stretch the elastic evenly...With the fabric right side up, lay the elastic so the wrong side is facing up and the right side of the pantie fabric is pointing towards you, sew round the elastic using a zigzag with the run of stitches just to the inside edge of the elastic. Once the first pass is done, trim off any excess material and fold the elastic in;then repeat your second pass using a three step zigzag...No pantie ever feels complete without a bow. I like a substantial bow but these are your panties and everyone has a choice of embelishents. I like a bow - I guess I am traditional. I always by 7mm double sided ribbon and it comes in many many choices of colour, but literally, the choice is yours and is seemingly endless..Whilst I wait for my order of ribbon to arrive in the post, take a look at the finished set. The bra is my Tulip Bra is from my own self drafted range, and when you add in the Chloe Thong the set works perfectly!..The next post in the Lingerie101: Serie 2 will be the Watson Bra from Cloth Habit. I love, love, love this pattern for a quick and easy wireless bra. Its also a great place for a begginer to start. In the mean time come on over to my instram page for some more inspiration; it's where I post all my makes and is my own satisfying journal of the things I have made for my family and friends..Stay Safe and see you all again really soon x x.
